You have a ground line coming in with each bundle and in the case of the coin door bundle, you can loop it to every terminal that requires a ground, e.g., you can go to coin switch 1 com, loop up to coin 1 lamp (either side, with 12 volts on the opposing side), then over to coin 2 lamp, down to coin 2 switch com, and if no other grounds are. Ran across a 60 in 1 JAMMA board on Ebay and was wondering what the deal was with them? How do they hook up etc;? Free transformers 5 full movie. Just any general info would be cool to have?? Installing a 412-in-1 board in a JAMMA cabinet is pretty much like installing any other JAMMA board. It’s just a matter of unplugging the existing JAMMA board from the JAMMA harness in the cabinet currently (if there is one) and replacing it with the 412-in-1 board. Video response for jpstyles85 on how to get video from the 60 in 1 multi arcade board. ArPiCade is a Raspberry Pi JAMMA adaptor that converts a RPi into a true JAMMA board, intended for you to do whatever it is you want with. No modification to your JAMMA cab is required (unless you want to add a kick harness).
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What this means for arcade game owners is that any post-JAMMA game board ('PCB') can be plugged into any JAMMA-compliant arcade game cabinet, and it will just magically work. Pretty neat!
What is less neat is many used cabinets have been a little abused by their previous owners. Damage from players and hasty fixes may equal some pretty insane problems with the hardware.
Older games, like this IKARI Warriors cabinet, had a PCB pinout that doesn't match JAMMA. In order to use the cabinet for JAMMA games, one must replace the connector, or even rewire the entire cabinet, being careful to match each wire to the proper place on the connector.
As you can see, on my machine, not only was the original board non-JAMMA (it was a proprietary pinout used by SNK), but also someone, possibly a repairman, wired the cabinet in a THIRD pinout, which I call 'sorta JAMMA.' The SNK board was connected to the cabinet with this janky board. It was totally unlabeled - the pen markings are my attempt to make some sense out of the board.
The 'CSI: Arcade Operator' portion of our program: from the burn marks on the GROUND connector, we can infer that the traces and board were not rated for the amount of current for the entire machine running through a single trace (oopsie!). There were four GND connections, but they weren't connected to each other, and from the look of things all the power for the entire board was going through this one connector.
The board connector fried, and rather than connect the other grounds, the operator connected another single wire to the ground, likely because they didn't know anything about how electricity works or Ohm's Law or the Joule effect - basically 'if you put a lot of current through a tiny wire it will melt or catch fire.' This next little wire also fried..
if you look closely you can see a similar problem happened to the +5V connection, and it was re-soldered over and over again.
The short version: I have to rehabilitate this cabinet to get my game working. I may as well get it working in a modern way that can use other games, don't you think?
What is less neat is many used cabinets have been a little abused by their previous owners. Damage from players and hasty fixes may equal some pretty insane problems with the hardware.
Older games, like this IKARI Warriors cabinet, had a PCB pinout that doesn't match JAMMA. In order to use the cabinet for JAMMA games, one must replace the connector, or even rewire the entire cabinet, being careful to match each wire to the proper place on the connector.
As you can see, on my machine, not only was the original board non-JAMMA (it was a proprietary pinout used by SNK), but also someone, possibly a repairman, wired the cabinet in a THIRD pinout, which I call 'sorta JAMMA.' The SNK board was connected to the cabinet with this janky board. It was totally unlabeled - the pen markings are my attempt to make some sense out of the board.
The 'CSI: Arcade Operator' portion of our program: from the burn marks on the GROUND connector, we can infer that the traces and board were not rated for the amount of current for the entire machine running through a single trace (oopsie!). There were four GND connections, but they weren't connected to each other, and from the look of things all the power for the entire board was going through this one connector.
The board connector fried, and rather than connect the other grounds, the operator connected another single wire to the ground, likely because they didn't know anything about how electricity works or Ohm's Law or the Joule effect - basically 'if you put a lot of current through a tiny wire it will melt or catch fire.' This next little wire also fried..
if you look closely you can see a similar problem happened to the +5V connection, and it was re-soldered over and over again.
The short version: I have to rehabilitate this cabinet to get my game working. I may as well get it working in a modern way that can use other games, don't you think?